So you decided on The Big Island...

It has been awhile since I visited the Big Island, but I do love it.  There are two airports, one on the Kona side (west) at Keahole and the other in Hilo on the eastern side.  The Kona side has the best weather but be warned, this may not be the tropical paradise you had imagined.  This is a young island and the western side has huge fields of black lava, especially as you travel north to the resorts.  Don’t worry you’ll see plenty of tropical foliage but these fields are a reminder that Pele is the true boss here.

Let’s start in Kailua-Kona and make our way north.  Kailua-Kona is a great place to stay on the Big Island.  The weather is fabulous, there is lots to do and it’s easy to get around.  I’m a bit of a history geek so I really got into all the historical points of interest in this area.  I used the guidebook “Hawaii the Big Island Revealed”  Doughty and Friedman do and excellent job in this book of guiding you to theses points and telling the stories.  It’s just a fun read as well as an excellent resource. 

There is a museum on Ali’i Drive called Hulihe’e Palace.  This was once the vacation home of hawaiian royalty.  It has been a lot of years since I’ve been to the Kona side but there was a young man named Kalani who gave us a historic outrigger canoe tour that started in this museum.  Kalani was full of Aloha and very excited to share his heritage .  If he is still operating I highly recommend his tour.

Another highlight in Kailua-Kona was the Million Dollar View Wendy’s.  I couldn’t believe that a fast food restaurant had such a prime location.  It was up on a hill out side of the Keauhou Mall over looking the ocean.  It was spectacular!  Well I guess the owner had to close the doors for lack of finding good help.  But the word is it is reopening as a Sam Choy’s Restaurant.  He’s a local chef and a local favorite.  I look forward to trying it out on my next trip.  Oh and by the way, we caught the best Hula show I’ve seen on the islands inside this mall.  The hula crew was one large family and the kids stole the show, and it was free!

As you head north towards the big resorts you’ll pass through the lava fields.  This drive becomes very entertaining because people have used white coral and shell to write out their names on the lava.  I have never been to any of the resorts up here but I have heard very nice things about them, especially the kids programs.

Past the resorts things get pretty rural and it is a very nice drive through Hawaii’s cowboy country. 

Going south out of Kailua-Kona the terrain is interspersed with lava fields and the views are beautiful.  You’’ll come to Kealakekua Bay.  There is a lot going on here.  This beautiful bay was created long ago when a giant lava shelf collapsed into the ocean creating a tidal wave that completely rolled over the top the island of Lanai. This area was sacred to the ancient hawaiians and was the burial site of kings.  It was also the first landing spot of Captain Cook on the islands and a year later, the place of his death.  Now it is a marine life conservation district and is a fabulous place to scuba, snorkel and kayak.

Just south of the bay is Pu’uhonau City of Refuge National Historic Park.  Being a history geek, I loved this place but it is worth a look even if you are not into history.  There is a reason the ancient hawaiian royalty hung out here.

The drive to the southern point of the big island is just beautiful and there are plenty of beaches dotting the coast.  Again the the Hawaii Revealed guidebook gives excellent beach descriptions and directions.  One of my favorites was Punalu’u Black Sand Beach just a bit up the eastern side of the point.  This place is gorgeous but not a place I would spend the day playing in the sand.  The black sand is like teeny tiny shards of black glass.  It doesn’t hurt you but it sticks to everything and it doesn’t want to wipe off.

Now you are heading north towards the volcano.  Plan on spending several hours exploring the park and do make your first stop the visitor’s center so you can find out where the lava is flowing and the best way to view it.  I won’t give you many detail here since the lava flow is constantly changing the guest experience and I would want to spoil anything for you.  It’s far better for you to discover this place for yourself.  You might want to plan to be here at sunset.  The lava viewing at night can be spectacular.

Now let’s go to Hilo.  Hilo is an old port town and looks like a great place to stay.  This is the rainy side of the island so things are much more lush and tropical.  The only place I’ve stayed on this side is at Yoga Oasis outside of the town of Pahoa so my experience is limited but I loved it.  At Yoga Oasis I stayed in one of their cabins in the rain forest.  One of my best memories is laying in bed there at night listening to the rain on the tin roof and waking up surrounded by nature.  I still want to go back and spend a month studying yoga there.

Even if you have no interest in Yoga Oasis do check out Pahoa.  I love this town!  This area is full of interesting people living their lives off the beaten path.  You can also get a killer Green Papaya Salad at Ning’s!

Taking the 130 south the road abruptly stops at Kaimu Beach.  The town was over taken by a lava flow in 1990.  Locals here have started planting coconuts in crevices of the lava on the walk to the beach to help Mother Nature re-foliate the area.  It’s a beautiful black sand beach and you can help the cause by planting you’re own coconut.

The view going north of Hilo are spectacular as well and it is a great drive.  Do take the 220 to Akaka Falls.  I loved this place!  If Walt Disney had designed a tropical walk for one of their parks it would be just like this but this one is real!

The drive north ends at the Waipio Valley. 

We took a Horseback Riding Tour here

that we loved.  The valley road is so steep

they won’t let non-locals drive down but

transportation is provided.  Our horses

were well mannered and sweet tempered

and our guides brought us through tropical

beauty we could of only imagined. 

This whole valley was wiped out in 1957

by the tsunami created by the earthquake

that struck the Aleutian Islands.  It remained largely unsettled until the late 60s when it was discovered by hippies who squatted in the area.  It has slowly been resettled but there are still a lot of counter-culture vibe in the area.

Other areas to check out…

1. Parker Ranch in the northern up-country.  This is one of the oldest working cattle ranches in the US.  My attempt to have a taste of hawaiian steak was foiled but I look forward to it on my next trip.
   

2. The Mount Kea Observatory is at 14,000 feet above sea level at the night sky is spectacular.  They offer a nightly star gazing program starting at 6 pm.  Remember to bring some warm clothes.
   

3. It is also on Mount Kea where there is sometimes enough snow to ski.  You’ll need a 4WD vehicle and buddy’s who are willing to take turns shuttling up the mountain.
   

Activities I recommend on the Big Island.....

Horseback Riding in the Waipio Valley

Fair Wind Cruise to Kealakekua Bay. 

They provide all the gear to snorkel and

lunch.  When you tired of snorkeling you

can float on a tube and cannonball off of

the ship’s diving platform.  We had a blast!

Lava Watching  If the volcano is erupting you’ve got to see it!

History  I seriously loved finding all the historic locations in the guide book and learning about ancient Hawaiians

On my To-Try List for my next visit………

1. Zip lining!  They now have some zip line tours that I am anxious to try.
   

2. Kayaking at Kealakekua Bay.
   

3. Mount Kea Observatory
   

4. Volcanos’s National Park… I want to see how it has changed!
   

5. Revisit Kaimu Beach so I can compare how it has changed with the picture I took on my last visit.
   

6. I’d like to stay at one of the big resorts so I can see what all the fuss is about.
   

7. Eat at Sam Choy’s
   

My favorite beaches….

1. Kekaha Kai State Park is my favorite
   

2. beach ever but it is difficult to get to. 
   

3. You have to drive across a mile of
   

4. lava flow just to get to the parking
   

5. lot.  Not a feat you may want to do
   

6. in a rental car.
   

7. Punalu’u Black Sand Beach may not great to play in but simply beautiful.
   

8. Hapuna Beach is rated as one of the best beaches in the world.  There are more people here but it is still very nice.
   

My favorite place to eat……..

It’s been a long time side I’ve been to most of the island so I only have one recommendation from my last visit.

1. Ning’s Thai Cuisine in Pahoa.  I can’t get enough of the green papaya salad!
   

For more info:   http://www.gohawaii.com/big-island